Anybody know anything about automatic transmissions?

[Ilander]

...Or where I could look on the internet for information?

My 1991 Chrysler LeBaron (is beautiful, but that's not the question) has something wrong with it---it won't shift into 3rd gear (it's a 3-speed automatic). While I can still drive it (all the other gears work), I can't attain highway speeds.

I have heard that it could be an electronics issue, or a transmission fluid issue...or, worst case scenario, my transmission is bad.

Anyone know anything about early 90s transmissions or where I could go to look?

[Bungleau]

Go to a transmission shop for a checkup. Ask them to apply the checkup cost towards any work they have to do (they should agree to that without a problem). Ask for parental assistance for funding [img]smile.gif[/img]

Unless you're a gearhead with access to tools and a shop (or a place you can call a shop), monkeying around with a transmission can be a good way to turn a car into a boat anchor or a planter...

[Ilander]

Well, for the record...I do happen to have access to what might as well be a shop---we've replaced engines, performed untold amounts of maintenance...and dad has every tool known to man...okay, maybe a little bit of an exaggeration, but, we nearly everything a person would need---except the equipment to do ANYTHING with the thing's electronics.

Parental assistance for funding isn't likely, but I do intend to take the car to a shop and have them at least analyze it. I was just wanting to see how hard this is gonna hit me in the wallet

[Elif Godson]

Does it slip at all or make any noises? There are several parts in the tranny that could have gone from a warn tooth on a gear to a tensioner. Do you have any issues in reverse and have you checked the fluid level or replaced the filter any time within the last 30000 miles or so? How many miles are on it?
Transmission repairs arent cheap if they need to be repaired.

[ 04-11-2005, 02:15 PM: Message edited by: Elif Godson ]

[Mack_Attack]

Well I would say it has very little to do with electronic issues. A trany has loads of gears and cogs. I am sure something is wore out and will need to rebuilt or repaired. I would even look at a junk yard for option instead of getting a garage to do it. But first change all the fluids it is a cheap option.

[quietman1920]

Transmissions. There's like a 15% chance that a repair replacement will still leave you with a mess even with a professional and unlimited cash.
(I personally don't like automatic for that reason)
Doing it yourself, well I wouldn't do that with plenty of insurance and a deathwish. (I don't recommend people do their own brakes either.) You could get lucky, but your car is almost 15 years old now.

You may not want to hear it, but its time to weigh how much a junkyard would give you for scrap vs what Trade-In value you would get sans transmission repair costs. Its time to start thinking down-payment on another used car.

[Ilander]

My car, oddly enough, had no slippage whatsoever before it stopped shifting into 3rd. That's why I'm not so sure that it's a purely mechanical problem...

The car itself has 154k miles on it (247k km). For the record, Dad and I have replaced transmissions before---we replaced on in a 1996 Ford Aspire and one in a 1988ish Chevy Blazer. We know what we're doin' . lol

I will not get assistance in purchasing another vehicle. I know this, but I'd rather not ellaborate on it...Let's just say that it's not quite a viable option to take the thing to the scrap heap. After all, it never slipped beforehand.

I would sooner replace the entire main drivetrain (engine AND transmission) than junk this vehicle. I AM qualified to do that.

[Charlie]

Sorry mate, sounds like a clutch has gone in the box (yes auto transmissions have many clutches) it's highly unlikely to be electrical (although not completely impossible) as most clutches work hydraulically/mechanically as opposed to electro/mechanically and in either case the clutch friction material needs to be in good shape to operate effectively.

Try driving 10 miles (standard gearbox warming up procedure)...then park on level ground. With the engine running, then pass the box through every gear three times (that is to say... P...R...D...N...3...2...1...2...3...N...D...R...P. ..R...D...N...3...2...1) and back to Park. Then with the engine RUNNING AND IN PARK WITH THE HANDBRAKE ON, STANDING TO THE SIDE AND NOT IN FRONT OF THE VEHICLE dip the gearbox oil using its gearbox dipstick, wipe clean and redip. My guess is you will find it (the oil) dark brown or grey as opposed to the bright pink/red that automatic transmission fluid (ATF) should be. If it is thus the fluid is contaminated by either a clutch or brake band lining failure. If no fluid is visible on the stick then top up and repeat the complete procedure including the 10 mile warming up road test.

P.S Engine and gearbox are different entities....No need to replace an engine along with a gearbox when only one is giving trouble....and vice versa.

[ 04-11-2005, 08:28 PM: Message edited by: Charlie ]

[Ilander]

...lol...with some cars (like aforementioned 1996 Aspire) there is...the thing would be nearly impossible to remove otherwise! You may be right, though, as I have done this before, and, I think that the dipstick had brown fluid on it. Can't remember perfectly, though...

Assuming that that is the problem, what would the best solution be? Rebuild the tranny (not something we could do in our shop)? Replace it with a new or rebuilt one (we COULD do that)? Junk the car?

[Charlie]

There is NEVER the need to replace an engine and a gearbox at the same time unless both are diagnosed to be at fault and are both diagnosed defective (the engine having no real effect on the running of the gearbox per se and the running of the box not affecting the engines normal operation), there may however be the need to remove the pair together to effect a repair to one or the other...this is not uncommon.

As for the route to take...repair or replacement.

A contaminated auto box will, through its nature, contaminate the rest of the box thus causing (in future) failure of additional components (clutches/brake bands), therefore repair often leads to complete replacement of said parts, subsequently a replacement to the non professional mechanic is preferable as guarantees and warranties will apply to the replacement gearbox. This will not be the case should a repair be made to defective parts that then lead on to contamination and breakdown of existing parts that aren't replaced, even though the repair and replacement of the original defective parts be sound.

[ 04-11-2005, 09:05 PM: Message edited by: Charlie ]