Electricity question

[Arnabas]

I have a quick question for anyone who might know about such things.

In my house, which we bought last year, there is a fire alarm that is not battery-operated, but wired directly into the ceiling.

Recently, it has started to go off for no reason. I am thinking it may be because it is situated right outside the bathroom and the steam from the shower (we've left the door open while showering during the warmer weather) has buggered it up, since this is what we were told was the cause of our malfunctioning alarm in our apartment before we moved.

Last night it went off again, scaring my son who was asleep to the point that he was as white as his sheet. We would like to remove it and put in a new one, probably battery operated.

The alarm has 4 wired leading to it. As I recall from the electronics course I took, which dealt with electricity a bit, I should be able to just cut the wires and tape off the end so that they don't contact each other.

I just want to confirm that, however. I don't wan't to electrocute myself. Or start a fire. Or electrocute myself *while* starting a fire.

Thanks for any advice.

[Arvon]

Try explaining the problem to your local hardware store, or home supplier store. Usually some one has some knowledge about that type of stuff.

[Ziroc]

Sometimes dust can cause the sensor to malfunction. You may want to blow some compressed air into the parts. (kill power to the entire house if you don't know which fuse switch it's on. Also, since steam is near it, it could also become rusted from the steam, causing issues (going off).

Before you do anything, shut power off to the house (or area of house--usually they have a red LED showing its live, make sure its off, and even THEN, check the voltage with a meter). to remove it, use tools that have rubber handles. and wear gloves. When I work ok wiring, I assume its always a live wire--even if I know its off. Just to be safe.

Then, when its removed, screw on those little yellow caps on to the wires. Here is a website that shows what your wires mean (lists codes for each country)
http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_5/chpt_2/2.html



But as Arvon says, check with the local hardware guys.. maybe take a picture of the wiring, and print it out, and take it to them--I've done that, to show them the issue with things. Helps a lot.

[Ziroc]

BTW, does your detector check for Carbon Monoxide? Maybe its getting a hit there? Radon?

[Felix The Assassin]

Z has hit it.

Get the power turned off to the unit.

Never just tape house wiring. Use electrical wire nuts, and if it's to be permanent, use liquid electric tape to seal the openings of the wire nuts. Go to an electrical supply store, *NOT* the super centers, and ask for a 4" decorative cover. The base of this will hidden screw into the mounting holes, then the fascia will hidden shaft slide into the base, covering the unsightly hole in the ceiling.

Double check that the unit does not have a battery cavity in it first. 110 VAC is the primary, with 9 VDC as back-up by code since the mid 1990's.

If the battery slot is empty, the steam may have purged the sensor back into operation...OR, as Z pointed out, dust wreaks havoc on the sensor.

[Firestormalpha]

I would also recommend checking with local code enforcement about the alarms. Recent had to change from battery operated to one that plugs into a wall due to a code change and the Fire marshall was actively checking and placing liens on properties that didn't comply.

[Felix The Assassin]

Originally Posted by Firestormalpha I would also recommend checking with local code enforcement about the alarms. Recent had to change from battery operated to one that plugs into a wall due to a code change and the Fire marshall was actively checking and placing liens on properties that didn't comply.

I'm hoping this new unit does in fact have battery back-up?!

If not...

[Firestormalpha]

It has a battery backup that charges while the power is plugged in.

[Chewbacca]

Have somebody around to kick you if you start jiggling

[Bungleau]

My suggestion is *not* to disconnect it.

I had a similar problem a couple of years ago. The wired smoke detector in the basement went off... while I was in the basement on a call with a customer. "Excuse me, I need to drop off. Our smoke alarm is going off, and I need to investigate immediately."

They were understanding, to say the least

Turned out that the bathroom above the detector was having a water overflow issue, and the water got into the detector and completed a connection somewhere.

Cleaned up the water, and problem abated.

All that says that you may well be on the right path, that steam from the bathroom is the real culprit. But my answer would be to either block the steam or move the detector a few feet away, not remove it.

A competent electrician should be able to move it without much difficulty. And an incompetent one should be able to do that as well