No, you don't have to go to Ishad n'ha first, It's very close to the city, but it's on the east side. After passing through the caves (with the oracles) head SW. If you go west, you hit the city. Follow the river south, and you'll find the front entrance. When I was there I met a wonderful fellow named Kol, who instructs you to go to the backdoor (the only way to get into the temple at this point). It is roughly SW from there.
Good luck, and make sure you have cure poison potions, or a cure poison spell. Very helpful.
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