Remember that the value of jewelry is more than just the raw materials. It's also the artistry, labor, and design that go into making the jewelry. That makes a percentage less applicable than otherwise.
However, it does make it easier to decide. If one bauble is simple gold, and another has an ornate or valued design, then its value to may go up.
It's a variation of an old theme... the value of a glass of water is directly related to how thirsty you are and what your alternatives are.
And good luck... I hope she gets the (right [img]smile.gif[/img] ) message