After some hesistance I decided to upgrade my little Dell 4550 with a new power-supply so it can support the newer video cards out there. I recently bought a newer system but wanted this one for MPer purposes with friends and family.

My question is how easy is this to do? I don't wanna go all out and buy another PSU only to discover something else needs to be replaced (such as the mobo) or that it can't run on my system. I basically have no clue of the ins & outs of upgrading when it comes to PSU's. What is a good/reliable brand that won't blow my budget through the roof? What steps should I take before buying to ensure the unit would be compatible with my current system? I've been looking on newegg.com but if anyone who knows their stuff could actually point me to 1 or 2 models that'd be great. Ahh well, back to puzzling this out.

Ahhh.... the fun of tinkering [img]smile.gif[/img]

First thing I'd do is to take a look at your current PSU. On it there should be a model or description that will tell you the kind of power supply it is -- ATX, AT, or whatever. The first pass of change is to make sure that you're getting the correct type of PSU. IOW, the connectors need to match your current environment.

There's really no issue with getting too big of a power supply; any excess power just simply won't be used. It won't give more power than it's supposed to.

Too small is a problem, however. I came across a site somewhere (possibly on Tom's Hardware) that gave me a list of components and their power requirements. MoBo was something like 80 watts, hard drives 40, and so on. Add up the pieces and make sure you get at least that much power. I think the minimum these days is around 350 watts, so 400 to 450 is a good range to look at.

I don't have any good suggestions on brands, but definitely look for one that's quiet. The PSU I installed on my newest machine is a lot louder than I would like... :(

When you get ready to swap it out, take note of what's plugged in where. Fortunately in today's computing world, plugs are pretty much designed so you can't put them in wrong.

Last thought... when you replace it, you may need to jiggle other things in the case. When you reboot after the upgrade, some of those other things may have worked loose. If something flashes as a problem, try reseating it to make sure it's in properly.

Have fun!

[ 02-22-2005, 11:00 AM: Message edited by: Bungleau ]

Great stuff mate, thanks! You cleared up alot of my fears. The url you posted isn't working for me though but I gathered it was on Toms Hardware so I'll go have a gander over there :D .

I just did this myself and it was easy as a memory game.

My only challenge was managing the extra cords and plugs into a tidy scenario.

Apologies, Spirit Warrior. I missed one silly little quotation mark in my post, and it all fell apart. You guessed correctly, though; it was Tom's Hardware I was talking about.

There are at least two pages on separate web sites that allow the visitor to fill in the blanks on a form asking what kind and size of hardware a PC has, or is proposed to have. With one of those, you hit the "compute" button when done.

As I recall now, the other is interactive and keeps adding up a running total as you fill the page in. That second one is supposed to be the most accurate. In both cases, you calculate for a "most severe case" situation that is so unlikely to happen, it's close to impossible, but if it could, you'd be covered by a reserve power availability.

The one of those two I'm sure to have a URL for is the older, less accurate one, sorry. I had a problem with Mozilla collecting a Java code string instead of a real URL, from the "best" site.

http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/

The key warning I want to impart is this: most of the "name brand" PC makers, such as Dell, order "proprietary" modifications to their MB's and PSU's. The plugs and receptacles look the same as an Industry-standard MB or ATX PSU, but they DIFFER. You have some potential of damage to many of the name brand MB's with a PSU that doesn't match the proprietary connection scheme that the maker uses. There are retailers selling compatible components for various brands, including Dell, but you have to shop wisely, confirming with the seller that you are getting a piece guaranteed to work with the brand (and Dell, being the most popular seller, is easiest to shop for in this regard).

Replacing the PSU is a simple job.

Undo the screws and cables.

Screw the new PSU back in.

Plug the cables in.

The trick is to purchase yourself a new PSU which meets the ATX 2.0 specification and is rated at least 400W.

IIRC, you will definately be voiding your warranty by installing a new PSU. No biggie though, any problems and we'll fix it ;)

One last thought... one of the best approaches I've found to replacing something like a PSU is to bring the old one in to a trusted computer store, put it on the counter, and say, "I need another one like this, only bigger [img]smile.gif[/img] "

And if you get a clerk who's on his toes, he'll ask you if you want him to add in all the dust as well :D

As Dace mentioned, they're really not too hard to take out, so this isn't so far-fetched.

All great advice.
Now, for the black cloud.
Dell as well as other name brands use proprietary components. Ensure that you in fact have a standard MB, one in which that can take an upgraded PSU. Normally major makers cross one or two cables just to ensure that you the user must stick with 'their' brand.

Check your specs, you are looking for standard ATX verbage in regards to your MB. A call to Dell may be in order.

PSU swapping can be very easy if you replace with what you need. Keep in mind newer CPUs need not only +12 & +5 but -12 & -5 as well. Then again, older cpus do not need either. This would then leave you with two extra cables with no place to plug-in. No biggie thou, just hang them out of the way.

If your system is working, does not mysteriously crash, and provides hours of service, why replace anything?

Oh, missed the budget part.
What is your budget? If under $70.00 don't bother. It's not really all about the wattage, it's really all about the Amperage. Don't buy anything with less than 18A on the +12V rail, or 40A on the +5V rail! Wattage will then be in line with your current needs. Also if you have that big named "as seen on tv" cpu, then ensure it is compatable for that cpu.

[ 02-23-2005, 10:27 PM: Message edited by: Felix The Assassin ]