I have done most of the first quests up to and including Umar Hills but cannot get to Windspear Hills even though it is marked on the World Map. Any ideas as to why I cannot get there?

Have you spoken to Lord Jierdan Firkraag at the Copper Coronet and accepted his quest?

Yes I have accepted the quest and it is logged in the journal. The hills are marked on the world map but whenever I put mouse over them it stays shaded even if I am in Umar Hills or Druid Grove, ie those "next door" areas.

Try leaving through the city gates again, that's generally the way.

I am having the same problem. I am going to load the patch to see if it helps even though it does not reference this problem